Sherine Anis
In the morning, depending on the time when the window is open, the scent entering the studio varies between çay, coffee, cigarette or the subtle Bosporus breeze of Istanbul. In an Oriental rhythm – an almost familiar rhythm – I sometimes consciously, sometimes unconsciously hear the muezzin bawl or sing directly or from a recording. Being set in a predominantly Muslim country with this daily routine, I feel close to the city in a gentle and cosy way. At times I think how unbelievable it is how the media and news can paint so negative a picture of a country and its population that my family of origin and my own family tried to dissuade me to come here and warned me that the short stay was much too dangerous (!) because of the wave of arrests. Even the reassuring words I said and the responsible promises I made (…) did not help. I have already forgotten those discussions. I am looking out of the window, and the neighbours are going about their lives before my eyes as I am watching them. Sometimes they see me lean at the window’s edge. For a few months, I am part of their everyday lives when they look out of the window. When the eyes of two strangers meet, this unwanted millisecond-long tension is released by curious eye contact like an accidental, short bump when you park your car in a space that is much too tight.
| 1. | My stay in one word: |
| Eventful | |
| 2. | Things I miss since I am no longer there: |
| Most of all, I miss the people and their gentle, helpful and welcoming attitude – the way they treated me, friendships evolved from these encounters.I also miss the endless possibility of experimenting with the most diverse materials.Being able to order good, affordable food anytime if you just speak a bit of Turkish as well as the musical accompaniment at the bridges, aboard the ferries or elsewhere. | |
| 3. | Dos & Don'ts at this place?: |
| This city is huge and depending on where you are, there are special dos and don’ts. In particular, the codes of conduct for women are longer than for men. In 2017, there was the referendum and this 50/50 split between conservative and liberal people is reflected in certain neighbourhoods of the city."Where do you come from?" is a question asked in 90% of conversations. Everyone who does not speak Turkish is automatically a “yabanci” – a stranger, a foreigner. Depending on the political context, the answer has to be chosen with care.In my context, I would have had to tell every Turk the full story of my life so that I found good ways of evading this question with a sense of humour or a white lie. | |
| 4. | Where you can buy great supplies: |
| This city has everything and when I say everything, I mean really everything! There are materials for building in Kadaköy, a treasure-trove for work materials, protective clothing, tools, etc. The best place for textiles or goods sold by the metre and the requisite buckles is Eminönü. If you need something for your car, you have to go to Maslak. Tusla is the home of industry. Photo material and canvases are on sale next to the bazar. There is also a Bauhaus DIY store, but it is only worthwhile to go there when you want to have boards cut. |
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| 5. | What you should definitely bring with you from home: |
| Knowledge of Turkish | |
| 6. | On art at my residency place: |
| Unfortunately, the off-spaces come and go there. It depends on how well an off-space is able to finance itself as they do not get support from the government. Hence, this is not easy for people wanting to work in the cultural field. The tap is turned off so much that they fight for survival year by year. This is related to the current power and governmental conditions.As a consequence, there are only a few spaces in operation: REM Art Space, for example. Depot shows very interesting works, but is not considered an off-space and there are classic galleries such as KRANK Art Galeria in the Tomtom quarter. | |
| 7. | Around the studio – this is where I go shopping, drink a coffee and get the best lunch specials within walking distance: |
| I wish I could answer this question easily without going on for too long. Here are the highlights I discovered, which may be useful when mum or dad pay a visit: cezayir-istanbul.com Extremely delicious fusion cuisine miklarestaurant.com/en Good Turkish food with a great view akinbalik.com.tr Perhaps the best fish, has a charming, authentic atmosphere; reserve in advance to get a table! |
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| 8. | Where I like to spend the evening (dinner, drinks and best sound): |
| I liked to share my time as well as the studio. Friends who happened to be in the neighbourhood dropped in and this is the way I liked to end the day. | |
| 9. | What I would have liked to know about the studio already at the start of my residency: |
| Whether I am allowed to work in the garden. |
Website resident: sherineanis.net